Laos through my eyes – Mark Steadman

This article is part of a series of guest blogs contributed by Brits who have lived and worked in Laos, or who have other interesting links to Laos.

Little did I know in 2004 when I first set eyes on the place I described as ‘Nearly Heaven’ in my blog, how tragedy would lead me to make Laos my home seven years later…

‘Nearly Heaven’ was how a cheery, chubby massage lady at Wat Sok Paluang in Vientiane referred to Si Phan Don – ‘the 4000 Islands‘.  After her tip off I headed south to investigate, spent a week swinging in a hammock listening to countrified Stones albums and enjoying ‘record breaking 8 hour breakfasts’.  My love affair with Laos had begun.  As I reluctantly followed the Mekong south into Cambodia, I lamented that I was ‘all out of sabaidees – but not out of love for this land and its people.’

Those Asian meanderings help inspire a career change from music to travel; I swapped selling records for working as an adventure travel guide.  My tours edged me further east – until I returned to Laos.   I wound my way to Phonsavan again, where I met an inspirational local man, Manophet – who would later change the course of my life.  Manophet ‘Lone Buffalo’ was one of those special people you meet in life who leaves an impression – whether you spend an hour, a day or longer in their company.  I was struck by his selflessness – he had dedicated his life to helping others; working with the national UXO clearance program, sharing his knowledge of his country with travelers, and teaching young Lao people English in his home – or football on the pitch opposite.  Manophet’s tragic passing in 2010 would inspire my friends and I to set up a Foundation, take his football team to complete in Sweden, open a free English school in Phonsavan – and make a movie about the experience!

After introducing an old music biz friend, Gareth, to Manophet, Gareth promised to take his talented football team to Sweden to compete in the football youth World Cup.  Tragically Manophet died on the eve of the tournament.  Inspired by the loss of their coach, mentor and English teacher the team returned to Laos with the Fair Play Trophy – a fitting tribute to Manophet’s legacy.  The ‘On Safer Ground’ documentary (www.onsaferground.org) beautifully tells the story of this amazing journey, cleverly intertwined with the tragic story of Laos’ recent history.

Inspired by my experiences in Sweden, I dropped my trusty North Face bag in Laos again towards the end of 2011, this time with plans to open a free English School in Phonsavan in Manophet’s memory.  Together with another good friend, ‘Teacher Nick,’ we filled a tuk tuk with boxes and headed out to meet the overnight bus to Phonsavan.  I dragged the course books back from Hanoi after a tour and within weeks we had turned a small rented building into two classrooms. Nick took charge of the classroom and the curriculum and the Lone Buffalo Foundation English Development Centre was open for registration.  We were surprised by desire locally to learn English; within a couple of weeks we’d met a whole cross section of the community – from 10 to 40 year olds and from tuk tuk drivers to air force pilots!

Lessons officially began in February 2012 and within a few months our student numbers had passed 100, split into three different levels of English. Most of our students come from the sizable H’mong community in Phonsavan.  Shortly after opening our story attracted the first of two official visits from the US Embassy.  The US Embassy’s subsequent support helped us initiate a girls football coaching program, managed by local US ex-pat Holly.  This program has helped us to attract a healthy percentage of female students to our English classes.

Whilst Nick and myself got the school up and running, Gareth busied himself in Europe working on the On Safer Ground film, determined to get the Laos story out to a wider audience.

Next we turned the adjacent garage into a small gym for our students and local people to use.  Equipment was donated by Phu Bia mining.  Nouad, one of our footballing heroes in Sweden – and by now a FIFA approved coach – was given a mandate to nurture a new crop of young footballing talent from our student ranks.

Our first academic year at Lone Buffalo exceeded our expectations. In addition to English we have taught courses in computers and filmmaking.  We have hosted guest speakers from the local community and taken our students out to study and film local attractions. Our students compiled a handy ‘Visitors Guide to Phonsavan’ that is available to travellers from Bamboozle, the popular Phonsavan restaurant.  We hold regular parents evenings to update on student progress – and remind them why we set up the school; Manophet is never far from our thoughts.

We use Bamboozle as a showroom for our project and they donate to us regularly.  Some of our students have also worked there to practice their English skills. We also generate funds from corporate teaching contracts and have regular support from international travel companies.

In February 2013, Teacher Nick and myself took a group of our students to the capital to present their short film ‘The Xieng Khouang Experience’ at the Vientianale Film Festival. For me it was an extremely proud moment, transcending anything I had previously achieved in music or tourism.  The Lone Buffalo Foundation was also honoured recently with an invitation to showcase our project at the new British Embassy’s party to celebrate Her Majesty’s Birthday.

I’m excited about our new term at LBF, when our students return from their family farms in September.  We will have a new western teacher joining us and we will also be using local teachers trained by Nick from our senior classes. Some of our students will be moving to Vientiane to continue their studies, creating room for new smiling recruits!

I still enjoy my work as a freelance tour leader that funds my stay in Laos.  Although my travels take me to some of the most amazing places on the planet, there’s nothing more beautiful than stopping at a Lao village and finding a smiling local to show my group around.  I love the simplicity of village life, the extended family bonds and the cohesion within the community.  It’s something we seem to have lost in western society.  Laos is also blessed with an abundance of stunning beauty  – I love the uniqueness of the torch lite boat ride through Kong Lor Cave and the peacefulness of Vieng Xai. The contrast of stunningly beautiful limestone karsts with the bloody backdrop of the revolution makes it one of the most fascinating places in Asia.  Then there are Lao’s ancient mysteries – the Plain of Jars and the menhirs at Hintang.  Luang Prabang still retains its charm and reputation as a wonderful place to ‘do very little’ – despite frequently being voted one of Asia’s top travel destinations.

I think it was the buzz around the 2009 South East Asian games in that galvanized my love for Laos and its people. Standing amongst the Lao sharing beer and ice from a bag with a straw was certainly a unique bonding experience!   Over the years I’ve witnessed the rapid development of the country.  I remember my horror arriving at the sleepy riverside border of Ban Houay Xai to be greeted by a shiny new ATM.  Now ATM’s are everywhere spitting out 100 000 kip bills – when I first visited Laos the biggest note was just 5000 kip.

I’m amazed at how our expectations of service have risen in Laos.  I smile when I recall the ‘bor pan nyang’ days of old – buses leaving hours late, food taking an eternity to arrive and stall holders rounding prices down to make it easier for themselves.  Although despite the (welcome) arrival of electricity and mobile coverage to rural villages, it still remains ‘farming as usual’ in the much of the countryside.

Laos still remains ‘Nearly Heaven’ to me.