Mansaf in the Badiya

Some people think that diplomats spend much of their time eating and drinking.  If only they knew how much time is spent answering emails and managing budgets.  But certainly lunches and dinners are among the essential tools that a diplomat uses to get to know people and to understand the country he or she is working in.

One of the delights of working in Jordan is invitations for Mansaf, the traditional dish of rice, lamb, pine nuts and “jameed”, the yogurt-based sauce.  Most of these invitations come from outside Amman, and it is always healthy to get away from Abdoun and see the real Jordan. 

Two weeks ago I went to the Northern Badiya at the invitation of the local Member of Parliament.  He had assembled a gathering of over 200 local notables in a huge tent outside his house.  Many were dressed in their traditional dress and were seated according to rank, with the tribal sheikhs centre stage. Meeting so many people can be quite a daunting experience for a boy from Romford in East London. 

As soon as I arrived, I went round and shook hands with many of the men who were seated in rows.  I then sat and drank some delicious aromatic coffee and chatted to the sheikhs seated either side of me.  Then came the formal part with speeches and questions and comments.  Some of the elderly sheikhs often refer to the historical nature of their relationship with the UK, including often a mention of Glubb Pasha.  Others, especially on this occasion in the north, were keen to impress upon me the problems they were facing with agriculture and the economy, especially with the influx of Syrians fleeing the brutal crackdown across the border in Syria.

I always try to respond to their questions, underlining that we support the government’s reform programme but that reform is up to them, the Jordanians, not up to outsiders.  

Some people have criticised foreign Ambassadors for undertaking these visits and accused them of interference in domestic affairs.  Nothing could be further from the truth.  The aim of such visits is to listen and learn.  That’s our job: to try to understand the country, the culture, the language and political and economic dynamic of the country we are working in.  Of course interference would be unacceptable.  But I am sure that Jordanian Ambassadors visit the regions of the countries they are working in and I hope that they are as welcome as I have been here.

The highlight of course is the Mansaf.  We all filed out to stand round  tables heaving under the weight of huge dishes, each bearing a whole sheep.  Some hosts like to offer me a fork and spoon, but the only way to eat a Mansaf is by hand, digging in to pull off the best meat, soaking it with the Jameed, rolling it up in the rice and pine nuts and tossing it in.  It can be very filling, but the astute guest should always leave room for the Knafe, the delicious dessert of fine pastry, melted cheese and pistachios.

These gatherings are experiences that will stay with me for a long time.  It’s why I joined the diplomatic service and is the part of the job I enjoy best.  And the welcome I have encountered everywhere in Jordan has been genuinely warm and very special.