When I was posted in Vienna from 1984-7 I enjoyed watching the signs that the seasons were changing. As an autumn chill crept into the air, the Viennese hailed the arrival of the “Russian crows” – big, capable-looking birds which would strut their stuff around the parks and squares of the city for a couple of weeks then disappear before the snow swept in. Another tell-tale was when workmen began building spooky wooden cases around the fountains and statues of the city to protect them from winter frost and snow damage.
Here in Kyiv I haven’t spotted any avian migration or statue packaging. But a sure sign of autumn is when the city’s open-air cafes shut up shop. Kyiv, with its continental climate, has a terrific outdoor cafe culture. In the spring, open air cafes ranging from the simple to the sophisticated sprout like mushrooms in parks, along the river and near tourist hot-spots. The resulting plethora of rest and recuperation opportunities is a treat both for residents and visitors throughout the long, hot summer.
Now, with temperatures (and conkers) plummeting, it’s time to settle back, enjoy the winter, and look forward to the reopening of the open-air cafes next spring – along with the prospect of Euro 2012.