Postcards from the Western Balkans

Remember the days when the tiny closed state of Albania was known from Orwellian Radio Tirana broadcasts picked up on a crackly short wave radio? Although things are very different now Albania remains a relatively rare destination for British visitors, so on my first visit I made sure to find postcards for my family.

My first impression, arriving along a motorway that had cut six hours off the Pristina to Tirana journey, was of spectacular mountain scenery, cultivated terraces, and zigzagging cattle paths. I confess that, despite the years of change and Albania’s reintegration into the European family, those early sounds had somehow also coloured my vision: I had no idea how stunningly beautiful Albania was.

In Tirana the OSCE team work with vision and pragmatism, alongside local partners, to support reform and self-sufficiency with the aim of ensuring that their ‘presence’ is no longer needed. To illustrate their approach they introduced me to an innovative (all-woman) team of provincial judges who have improved public access to justice simply by increasing the transparency and efficiency of their courtrooms which, incidentally, must compete for the best view of any in the world.

I had travelled to Albania from Kosovo, home to the OSCE’s largest regular Field Mission, some 600 strong. In Mitrovica I visited the main river crossing, symbol and reality of divisions left by conflict. In Pristina and Mitrovica I met people inching towards the reconciliation, institution building and human rights protection essential for enduring security and stability. Each practical step may appear small, even mundane, but the personal conviction and courage needed to take them in this post-conflict environment is not. I was reminded both of the patience of those who brought peace to Northern Ireland and the years ahead when peace will need to be nurtured, long after the shooting stops.

As I heard of the measures being taken to repair the threads of every day life I started to understand better the OSCE role providing a neutral backdrop for reknotting those broken threads. The aim of my visit was to understand better the work of OSCE field operations. But I also left Kosovo with something else: a small, precious insight into human nature and the post conflict environment.

A big thank you to everyone in Albania and Kosovo who took time to meet me and share their hopes and aspirations for their countries. In both the path ahead may at times feel more like a bumpy mountain track than the broad sweep of the motorway that cuts boldly through the mountains. It was a privilege to meet people with a clear view of their destination, and the determination, step by step, to reach it.

Photo: Courtroom in Kruje, Albania