Laos: River Pleasures

I am happy to be finally able to post my first blog as an UK Ambassador to Laos, and my first blog ever! I come from a generation that grew up without social media, and I am often wondering how we ever managed without it, seeing how much of an important role it now plays in everyday life.

My official tenure as an Ambassador started in June 2015 and I’m delighted to be the second British Ambassador to Laos since we reopened a mission here in 2012 after a break of nearly 30 years. Ironically, I joined the UK Diplomatic Service in 1985, the year we closed our Embassy in Laos. I spent the early years of my career as a London-based specialist covering different parts of South and South East Asia, though sadly never had the opportunity to visit Laos. I devoted the next 20 years serving in Washington, Nairobi, Khartoum and Moscow and most recently as UK Consul General in northern Iraq.

Like many newcomers to Laos, the first thing I noticed when looking out of the plane as it came in to land at Wattay Airport was the sheer scale and grandeur of the Mekong river. And, in the weeks following my arrival, I have begun to appreciate just how crucial the river has been in influencing so many aspects of Lao culture and identity. Since I grew up in a town in Scotland where a river was also the focal point of everyday life, it is perhaps not surprising I should already feel a natural affinity with Vientiane, capital of the Lao PDR. Of course, the Mekong is a much mightier waterway than the provincial river of my youth! The sights and sounds of this river city are very different, too, from those I recall as a child. I’ve already visited Buddhist temples, seen spirit houses, participated in a baci ceremony, gone night market shopping, and eaten sticky rice and chicken larp among other delicacies. And my Lao voyage of discovery is only just beginning – I can’t wait! Perhaps you can help me make the most of it.

I never thought I would get back to my professional roots in Asia. So, coming to Laos is like coming home! My wife too feels the same, not least because she is Asian (her family comes from Sri Lanka, another country with strong Buddhist traditions). She and my younger daughter just arrived few weeks ago and are slowly settling in. We also have an older daughter who, like many other 18 year olds, is preparing – with a mixture of trepidation and excitement – to go to university, and start a new phase in her life.

As many of you know, I have replaced my friend Philip Malone, who did a fine job in setting up a new embassy and working closely with the Lao government in developing the main priorities for our renewed cooperation. It will be my job to broaden and deepen those ties of friendship, all in the context promoting the development of Laos in an increasingly integrated ASEAN community.

Clearly much has changed in Laos since the 1980s when we closed our post. The country has been averaging an impressive 7% GDP growth rate per annum; poverty rates are down; social indicators are up (albeit with significant variations, especially between urban and rural areas). Laos aims to graduate from Least Developed Country (LDC) status by 2020. But important challenges remain. Senior officials have stressed to me how much they value the UK contribution to the programme for clearing unexploded ordinance (around $5 million). They want UK to step up to support efforts to help the government’s development in promoting education, tackling climate change and advancing governance reforms. And they also want me to encourage more British trade and investment with Laos. It will be my core ambition to help promote a modern creative partnership between the UK and Laos to our mutual benefit.

This means there’ll be plenty for me and my dedicated team to do in the next few years as we champion UK interests in this country and enlist UK expertise in supporting different aspects of bilateral cooperation. I’ll be writing regularly on what we’re doing and how we’re getting on. For example, I was delighted that a British theatre performed a Shakespeare play here in Vientiane in July. The National Culture Hall was packed for the performance and reverberated to the sound of standing ovations for the actors. I sent off seven Chevening students to their new academic adventures in various universities in the UK. Next year, that number will be thirteen! We saw a visit from UK’s Wilton Park on building the chairmanship skills for ASEAN, we are expecting a third visit from our Trade Envoy for Laos, Lord Puttnam soon, and we are working on some other senior visits later in the year. I am happy to be surrounded by capable and skilled embassy staff who take initiatives and on whom I can always rely for sound advice!

Meanwhile, an early personal priority will be travelling around and getting to know this diverse country. I hope to visit all 17 provinces, focusing partly on those places where is a UK development or commercial interest. But like thousands of other UK citizens coming to Laos this year, my family and I also want to explore the history and beauty of this amazing country. If you have any tips on interesting things to see and great places to stay, please drop me a line. And don’t forget to check the Embassy’s Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/ukinlaos for updates on my activities.