The following is a post by Mark Woodham, Former Deputy Head of Mission in Dushanbe.
After just over three years here, I am just about to leave Dushanbe and Tajikistan for pastures new. As always when leaving a place that has been home for several years, the departure is one of mixed feelings: on the one part the excitement of moving onto to pastures new, whilst also tinges of regret as I look back on some of the good times that I have enjoyed here.
When I first arrived, Tajikistan was a place few people had heard of back home, and some even suspected that I had made up the name. That’s starting to change, and this small country in Central Asia is seeing more interest from the rest of the world – in the past three years increasing numbers of tourists pass through both Dushanbe and travel more widely across this mountainous country that was once the easternmost corner of Alexander the Great’s empire.
Similarly, the past three years have seen the country garner much more official attention: from the first UK Government Minister’s visit in 2011 we have since had several more including most recently the first visit by a FCO Minister just last month. Not so long ago, the Tajiks may have been forgiven for thinking that the UK was not particularly aware of her existence; that no longer holds true – we are now seen as a friend to the country, although one that is also ready to raise tough issues when necessary.
A particular highlight from earlier this year was the first visit by a UK trade mission – delivering on commitments to encourage British companies to look at the investment opportunities here. True, there is still a way to go in developing the investment climate but several of those companies that visited are following up on what they saw as real opportunities in the market.
A big part of my focus has been on our values agenda, and through engagement we have progressed considerably in this area as well. Upon my arrival, I was often told what was not possible, and that key interlocutors stood in the way of progress. I have found that to be something of a myth – it is true that issues do not progress as swiftly as we may hope, but progress is possible: particularly by being ready to appreciate the real constraints that are oft faced here, and by ensuring that continued frank engagement with local actors is a true two way street.
To be honest, when I first arrived I was dubious as to how much I would enjoy this small landlocked country – I was born by the sea, and am always at my happiest when close to the water; but even I have to admit this really is a beautiful corner of the world, rich in both natural beauty and history. I have also been extremely lucky to meet friends here to whom I will remain close for life.
It is a young country, and one that is not without its difficulties and issues; but at the same time it has been a pleasure to work and live here, and an experience I would recommend to any colleague thinking of working in a place where you really can get involved in the full range of activity that our work offers.